Golf-O-Metrics (The Chip shot & Pitch & Run Shot : Joe Norwood Golf Swing Book 2 excerpts

Golf-O-Metrics (The Chip shot & Pitch & Run Shot

by Daniel Norwood on 12/18/13

The chip shot &

The pitch and run shot


  1. Take the grip.

  2. Extend the left arm.

  3. Place the blade squared to the target.

  4. Place the right foot parallel to the blade.

  5. Place the left foot forward and out so that the toe is pointing at a forty five degree angle.

  6. Do not lean forward or sag but make a weight shift onto the left leg.

  7. Activate the thumb and forefinger and take the club head away from the ball in the prescribed manner and return the club head to the ball from the elbow.

    1. Here, again the elbow goes out toward first base then continues on the line of flight – it does not cross the line of flight.

  8. There is no down in the swing as the club head only goes to about a knee high position.

  9. (There is a down in the swing when the arms go above the waist.)

  10. The club head leaves the ball on the back swing and merely returns to the ball from the elbow.

Clarification

Since this shot only requires the slightest of movement of the grip to extend into the seal there is no need to go to phase 3 of the seal since that in itself will bring the club head above the knees.

  • There is no need to activate the thumb and forefinger since there will be no swing and you will most likely be focusing on too many things. You do want to hold the handle of the club tightly in the "V" between the right thumb and forefinger.

  • Get the grip tight into the first two phases of the seal, the hands – thumbs down 45 degrees and the concave position of the hands at address. See my forum regarding the hooding of the right hand. This is important as the hooding of the club will keep the club in place during all phases of the swing. It is a most important small move.

  • Since the stance is open with this shot as it is with all of the short shots, there is no need to pre-turn and lock the hips to the 7:30 position. Once the stance is taken the normal pre-turn or lock of the hips will bring the waistline inline with the direction of the putt. The right elbow then follows the waistline slightly back and extends. This shot, as with the putt is made directly with the right elbow. Everything else is still, locked or loaded.

  • Just move 80% of your body weight onto the left sole of the left foot and bring in the back or right foot into the left using the right knee and forcing it into the back of the left knee and squeeze both legs tightly together so that the only thing that moves it the right arm and elbow.

  • Don’t think about the elbow going to 1:00 then squaring because your club is already squared at address.

  • Simply hold everything tight and move the right elbow along the waist to the appropriate length back swing to obtain the distance needed. This requires practice but (like the putt) you are using the hinge in the right elbow and moving the right elbow along the waist line then extending the elbow to its maximum on the move to the ball and holding the hands so that they do not release and that your follow through extends out about 6-10 inches past the ball towards the target.

  • Hold everything tight and hinge or flex the elbow along the waistline back just beyond your right thigh then straighten the elbow on the way down and to the ball.

The left arm must hold its extension because this is the guide for the straight line. The toe of the club leaves the ball first and the return to the ball is made with the heel leading the club head.

The basic difference between a chip shot and a pitch and run shot is the speed of the club head. They are both small shots, with the club head going to about a knee-high position on the back swing.

The variables encountered will dictate the club to be used as well as the confidence the player may have in any individual club.

The mechanics of the stroke are the same for every club. The putting stroke extended classifies these two shots.

Setting the seal of the wrists hoods the club head and swinging from the elbow imparts over spin on the ball.

The ball will run on a straight line when it has been struck a downward, pinching blow from a hooded face.

The ball runs with top spin, whenever it hits an obstacle it will kick one way or another but will always right itself by resuming a straight line again.

It is uncanny how straight it will run until it stops. It can run in and out of a dozen depressions and each time it recovers, it resumes its straight line.

It rides over stones, pebbles, rough grass and bare spots. It is always fighting to right itself, just as though it were alive.

A deflection is a momentary detour.

This proves the built in action that over spin imparts.

Joe Norwood came out of the 1900’s and into the 1940’s and during those times the greens were slow and the ball had to be hit with pace enough to move it over a lot of grass.

Today’s greens are so slick that hitting the ball to go over a pebble or twig or impediment means that the ball will travel 30 feet past the hole.

What top spin does do is:

  1. Powers through slight break on a green so that a putt under 10 feet can be directed to the center of the hold as long as you are hitting the ball 1-2 feet past the hold. This allows you to not consider the break in the line of the putt when the break in 1-2 inches.

  2. Holds the line of the break on fast greens with a lot of break. The ball does not wobble and you can tell by the roll of the ball that top spin is happening as the ball is rolling over a complete circle set by the reverse loft putter blade and the putt out of the right elbow.

  3. Power through a long putt as mentioned by Joe as it will hold the line of the putt. This type of putt is from 20-50 feet on public golf courses where there is a lot of play.

  4. Roll true over pit marks and dry patches.

A ball hit with an oscillating movement will impart side spin to the ball and when it is deflected it will continue on the line of deflection.

When it kicks to the left it will continue going to the left and vice versa.

Joe can hit a true running ball across a cinder field and it will run straight, become deflected, and repeat this action time and again.

It seems to ride over obstacles and it never ceases to amaze the onlookers the way the energized ball travels.

The straight line imparted to the ball at impact from a loaded left arm in conjunction with the squared blade is entirely dependable; it will perform each and every time just as it is programmed.

Pinpoint accuracy is assured in each and every shot.

Nothing but the arms move in making this shot; the body is still, anchored like a ten ton rock, toes gripping, posture is erect and nothing but the arms move.

The choice of club is yours; depending on the lie and distance, you can expect the same result or action from each and every club as long as the mechanics of the swing are maintained.

The chip shot is the putt extended. The club head does not rise above the knees.

The chip shot should not be attempted at a distance greater than the length of the green. When made from a distance greater than the length of the green, the ball will run off the green just as an airplane comes in too hot for a short runway.

A green without a sand trap behind it is a safe place to try a pitch and run shot.

Thumb and forefinger control will give you the delicate touch needed around the green for the chip and pitch and run shots. The holding left arm and wrist will give you an arrow straight line and enable you to get down in two.

How often do we see a golfer who is 5 feet off the green with 30 to 50 feet to the pin pull out a wedge and try to flop it up, just to see the lack of control they have with this particular club.

The chip shot can be made with a 4 iron to an 8 iron. When you are very close to the pin then that is the time for the wedge selection. The 6 or 7 iron offers the best roll. The ball will just roll with perfect top spin towards the line of the shot.

You must have the anchored lower body. Without it the arms will sway and the short swing will come to error. Stand on the left side strongly, make the left leg the pillar on which the lower body anchor is fastened to.

Your hands must be firm and tight and the inside of the palms of both hands must be holding on for dear life. Any movement with the wrists on such a short shot will cause error in the shot because there is just not enough room for the hands to recover.

This shot is hit with the elbow. The stance is open and the elbow moves along the waistline or rib cage straight back as there is no hip turn and lock with this swing.

Once the weight is placed on the left foot and the right foot comes into lock the left then the elbow takes over. All you do, as in a putt, is move the elbow along the waist line and then extend the elbow into the shot and hold the hands from breaking their seal after impact.

The heels are the same distance apart as with the Driver but instead of moving your left toe up by the length of the big toe and pivoting the big toe 45 degrees out, you have two alternatives.

  1. Keep both toes aligned at a 90 degree angle to the target and pivot the left toe out 45 degree, giving the appearance of an open stance even though the heels are square or (if you do this you must not make the hip turn or hip lock)

  2. Move the left foot back by the length of the right big toe then pivot the left toe out 45 degrees and then you will have a larger open stance. (This is the best position as it enables you to turn and lock your hips as with the regular swing and the waist will align with the direction of the putt)

  3. Regardless, the heels do not change their position from each other. They are about 8-10 inches apart for the average golfer. Never spread the heels apart more than 12 inches as your right thigh will not be able to lock the left thigh because they won’t be able to touch. If they cannot touch then the right cannot lock the left.


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Welcome to my page dedicated to the 2nd book to be published on the Joe Norwood Golf Swing. Golf-O-Metrics will not be republished in its current form. I will convert it to a PDF file when all the books are sold. The 1st editing of the 2nd book was completed in 2013 and is still a work in progress. The words in black either standard or bold are all from GOM and my Clarifications are in Blue, Brown or Green.  GOM tried to bring forth Joe Norwood's knowledge. Book II is an upgrade and clarification of his swing and knowledge. I hope you'll enjoy and learn